Bogotá
Bogotá,
the country's capital, is the quintessence of all things Colombian: a city of
futuristic architecture, a vibrant and diverse cultural and intellectual life,
splendid colonial churches and brilliant museums. It is also a city of Dickensian
waifs, beggars, shantytowns, drug dealers and traffic jams. This amazing mixture
of prosperity and poverty, Maseratis and mules, makes it one of the world's most
chaotic, fascinating and aggressive metropolises.
Sights
to look out for include: Museo
del Oro, which contains many relics of pre-Colombian history and is perhaps
the most important museum of its kind in the world; Museo Nacional, which contains
a wealth of exhibits ranging from pre-Columbian to contemporary art; Iglesia de
Santa Clara, with its fresco-lined interior, images and altarpieces; Iglesia de
San Ignacio, one of the most richly decorated churches in the country; the colonial
barrio of La Candelaria, the oldest quarter in the city; Cerro de Monserrate,
a peak flanking the city which is famous as a site of many miracles; and Jardin
Botánico José Celestino Mutis, a lovely botanical garden featuring a variety of
national flora.
Walking
the city's streets and observing the mad to-ing and fro-ing, the avalanches of
busetas, the extravagant stores and roadside stalls, is as fascinating as contemplating
the serene atmosphere of the city's colonial churches and museums, so give yourself
plenty of time for this sort of exploration. It's worth hanging out and watching
the buskers at the Plaza de Santander, browsing at the Sunday flea market at Mercado
de las Pulgas and looking (but not buying) at the street emerald market at the
southwestern corner of Avenida Jiménez and Carrera 7.
There
is also a lively arts and entertainment scene that features theater and classical
musical, discos amplifying sinuous Cuban rhythms in the trendy Zona Rosa, around
Carrera 15, plus plenty of venues for watching soccer and bullfighting. Most budget
travelers gravitate to La Candelaria, which has cheap accommodation and food.
Fifty
kilometers (31mi) northeast of Bogotá is the colonial town of Guatavita and the
famous Laguna de Guatavita, the ritual center and sacred lake of the Musica Indians,
and the cradle of the El Dorado myth.
Cartagena
& the Caribbean Coast
Cartagena
de Indias is legendary both for its history and its beauty. It has been immortalized
on countless canvases, glorified in hundreds of books and had its every detail
photographed a zillion times - and, as Colombia's most fascinating city, it deserves
every one of these tributes.
The
walled old town of this fortified Spanish colonial port is a gem. It's packed
with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and noble mansions with overhanging
balconies and shady patios. It pays to just wander through the old town, but some
of the highlights are the Palacio de la Inquisición; the colonial mansion Casa
del Marqués de Valdehoyos; and the lovely old port of Cartagena on the Bahía de
las Ánimas.
The
less touristy Getsemaní, the outer walled town, also has charming pockets but
is not so well-preserved. Nearby, there are a handful of impressive Spanish forts,
including the 17th-century Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas, undoubtedly the
greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in their colonies.
The Islas del Rosario, 30km (20mi) offshore southwest of Cartegena, have magnificent
coral reefs and abundant marine life, making them popular with snorkelers and
scuba divers. The L-shaped peninsula south of the old town contains the upmarket
holiday resorts of Bocagrande and El Laguito. Most budget travelers stay in Getsemaní;
there are mid-range options in the old town.
Other
highlights of Colombia's Caribbean coast include the town of Mompós, which is
an architectural showcase; the beaches of the Parque Nacional Tayrona; the Sierra
Nevada de Santa Marta, the tallest coastal mountain range in the world; the mud
volcanoes of Arboletes; and, deep in the jungle, the ancient city of the Tayrona
Indians, La Ciudad Perdida, which is the largest archaeological find in the Americas
this century.
Other
highlights of Colombia's Caribbean
coast include the town of Mompós, which is an architectural showcase; the
beaches of the Parque Nacional
Tayrona; the Sierra Nevada
de Santa Marta, the tallest coastal mountain range in the world; the mud volcanoes
of Arboletes; and, deep in the jungle, the ancient city of the Tayrona Indians,
La Ciudad Perdida, which is the largest archaeological find in the Americas this
century.
The
Northwest
The
northwest is made up of two large regions: the Chocó department (an extensive
stretch of tropical rainforest, sparsely populated, and including the lovely Los
Katiós National Park); and the departments of Antioquia, Caldas, Risaralda and
Quindío (a mountainous region, predominantly white, and the location of the dynamic
industrial and commercial city of Medellín). The oldest town in the northwest
is Santa Fe de Antioquia,
about 80km (50mi) northwest of Medellín,
which still retains much of its colonial architecture and atmosphere.
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Barranquilla, Bogotá, Cali, Cartagena,
Cúcuta, Ibagué, Ipiales, Leticia, Medellín,
Montería, Neiva, Pamplona, Pasto, Pereira, Providencia,
San Andrés Islas,
Santa Marta, Sincelejo,
Valledupar
The
Southwest
The
two biggest attractions in the southwest are the archaeological sites of San Agustín
and Tierradentro, and the colonial city of Popayán. Both San Agustín and Tierradentro
are littered with ancient statues, tombs and burial mounds, while Popayán has
many churches, museums and streets lined with colonial mansions. Cali,
Colombia's third-largest city, is noted more for its laid-back atmosphere than
its tourist attractions.
Off
the Beaten Track
San
Andrés and Providencia
This
archipelago in the Caribbean Sea lies about 750km (465mi) northwest of the Colombian
mainland and only 230km (140mi) east of Nicaragua. The southern group of islands
is clustered around the seahorse-shaped San Andrés and 90km (55mi) to the north,
mountainous Providencia is plopped into the tropical sea. San Andrés especially
has been affected by a duty-free inspired tourist boom, but the charm and beauty
of these islands has been largely retained. The turquoise waters, extensive coral
reefs and rich marine life are a paradise for snorkelers and scuba divers while
sun-soaked cays make soaking up UVs seem almost healthy. The easy-going life,
friendly atmosphere, adequate (although not super-cheap) tourist facilities and
general safety make the archipelago a good place to escape from the outside world.
San
Andrés lies on the cheapest and most convenient route between Central American
and Colombia. There are shuttle flights between the archipelago and the mainland,
and direct connections from several southern US capitals. There are no regular
ferries or boats, but cargo boats and freighters from Panama and Cartagena will
often take passengers.
Santuario
de Nuestra Señora de las Lajas
Church
Located 7km (4mi) from Ipiales, on a bridge which spans a spectacular gorge of
the Guáitara River, is this gothic church. Legend has it that an image of the
Virgin Mary appeared in the mid-18th century on an enormous rock above the river.
Interestingly, the church has been constructed in such a way that the rock (and
image) is its high altar. Pilgrims from all over Colombia
and Ecuador journey here and, unsurprisingly, reports of miracles at the site
are not uncommon. Accommodation is suitably ascetic, being provided in a small
but cheery convent up the road from the church.
Bahía
Solano and El Valle
These two settlements on the Pacific coast of Chocó, approximately 250km (155mi)
west of Medellín, are gradually
developing into holiday resorts. Facilities are threadbare yet the beaches, especially
Playa Larga in El Valle, are excellent. The two towns are good bases to organize
boat excursions upriver and there are plenty of opportunities to thrash about
in thick tropical jungle or stumble upon dozing wildlife. Nearby, the Parque Nacional
Ensenada de Utría, which includes Isla de Salomón, is a good location for whale
and dolphin-spotting.
Activities
Six-day
return treks to the ruins of La
Ciudad Perdida are very popular. Guides can arrange transport, food and accommodation
(guides are essential because the area is an important marijuana and coca-growing
region). The five to seven-day Nabusímake-Pico Colón Trek in the Sierra
Nevada de Santa Marta is a great way to experience Colombia's
mountains.
There
is great snorkeling and diving off the Islas
del Rosario, 30km (20mi) offshore from Cartagena,
and off the the Isla Barú, the peninsula south of Cartagena. The waters around
San Andrés and
Providencia are ooh-aah pretty-fishy spots of choice delight.
Adventurous
jungle tours of the Amazonian
interior can be arranged in Leticia. Well-equipped guides are thick on the ground
and tours of up to 10 days can be easily arranged. High-speed film - the jungle
is often gloomy - and mosquito repellent are a must.
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